Since when does shopping mean black and blue bruises?

This week is the Bicentennial celebration of Mexico's independence and I have been enjoying a five day holiday weekend. It has been lovely to have time to do some of the things that I've been putting off since coming to Mexico, as well as simply resting! One of those things was going to Tonala, a town about 40 minutes east of Guadalajara by bus. I have heard tales of shopping glory from others; stories of wonder that included handmade pottery for pennies, pewter for paltry amounts and jewelry to make others jealous. For me, Tonala was my own Mexican Mecca.

On Thursdays and Sundays Tonala becomes a tianguis, a vast open air market, with gorgeous, authentic Mexican pottery and knock-off Ray-Ban sunglasses being sold directly next to each other on makeshift tables. The salespeople at this market sit on low stools under tarps

strung for shade. They call to you as youwalk by and are ready to pounce if you happen to stop for a second look or touch any of their wares. Your name is 'jovenes' (young one) no matter how old you are. You might be covered in sweat, dust and have mascara running down your face, but they will tell you the necklace you're trying on makes you look 'muy bonita, muy bonita'. Many of them look as if they have sat in that very corner o

f the market their entire lives, the sun and wind etching their faces. Most have a large styrofoam cup filled with one of the augas that are sold throughout the market, including horchata, lim

on or jamaica. These cold and often intensely sweet drinks are a cheap and refreshing link to sanity in the hot and hazy tianguis world.

As a shopper, there is little time for contemplation. As you stop to admire a set of pottery, hoards of adults, children and other sales people with carts laden down with merchandise are continuing to move down the small corridor between the stalls. The first and most important question you as a shopper must ask is, ¿Cuánto cuesta esto? (How much does this cost?). There are no price tags, no price scanners and certainly no end of the season sales. There are many repeats in this open air market... yo

u will see similar merchandise up and down the street. Your job as a sh

opper is to find the best quality example and get the best price. My biggest draw to Tonala was the ability to buy beautiful Mexican things at normal Mexican prices...many of the other tianguis I have been to cater to 'tourists' and will charge you an 'Americana' price. White skin = mucho dinero. While in Tonala, when I would ask the price for something, my first reaction was to declare, ¿La verdad? (Really? The truth?). I couldn't believe the amazing prices I paid for beautiful things!

There was a price to pay for my bargain hunting. I arrived home with a backpack and three other bags full. I also came home more thirsty, weary and bone tired than I've been in awhile. While I was taking a shower I realized that I have some big, bad black and blue bruises up and down my legs from battling the crowds. For the rest of the day I dealt with sore legs and a spinning head. But I was victorious! I have beautiful pottery and Christmas presents for my familia...and spent about $75 U.S. dollars. La verdad!